The people crammed against the gate from the outside look the same as the ones reaching back through it from the inside. Women scream for children, and men shout bribes or bargains. Members of the village watch are jostled, sometimes pinned. One loses a hat. Houses and lanes show extra use and traffic—washing doubled on lines, streets coated with horse manure, large groups of the unwashed. There are clusters of tents. Market stalls are sparse, prices laughable, and nearly every exchange has an edge of violence.

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